Mountaineer Sirbaz Khan became the first Pakistani on Friday to climb nine of the world’s highest 14 peaks — each of which has a height of more than 8,000 metres — after he scaled the 8,167-metre-high Dhaulagiri mountain in Nepal, said Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri.
Sirbaz was part of the 19-member ‘SST-Dhaulagiri I Expd. 2021 Autumn’ expedition organised by trekking company Seven Summits Trek.
According to Seven Summit Trek officials, the climbers summited the world’s seventh highest peak on Friday morning, with Sirbaz raising Pakistan’s national flag upon reaching the mountain’s top.
Sirbaz Khan, Pakistan's famous mountaineer has successfully scaled Dhaulagiri-I (8167 m) in Nepal today. He is the first Pakistani to have climbed 9 out of total 14 peaks in the world above 8000m. InshaAllah, he will complete all 14
CONGRATULATIONS Sirbaz Khan.@PakinSydney_ pic.twitter.com/7GanljNJvm— Alpine Adventure Guides (@Alpine_Pakistan) October 1, 2021
In a Facebook post, Haidri stated that the 32-year-old Sirbaz hails from Aliabad, Hunza and began his professional climbing career in 2016.
“Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain at 8,516m in Nepal without the use of supplementary oxygen,” he wrote.
His other 8,000m summits include K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Anapurna, Everest Gasherbrum II, and now Dhaulagiri.
According to Haidiri, Khan had accompanied Muhammad Ali Sadpara on 4 of his 8,000-metre summits and their last expedition together was from Nepal to Manaslu.
Sajjad Ali Sadpara, son of the legendary climber Muhammad Ali Sadpara, also took to Twitter to congratulate Sirbaz.
“Lots of congratulations to @Sirbazkhan to climb Daulaghiri. After summitting Daulaghiri he is first Pakistani to summit nine 8,000 mountains,” he wrote.
Lots of congratulations to @Sirbazkhan to climb Daulaghiri .
After summitting Daulaghiri he is first Pakistani to summit nine 8000 mountains.#Daulaghiri#mountains#highaltitude#Sirbazkhan pic.twitter.com/YvZMfxX57W— Sajid Ali Sadpara (@sajid_sadpara) October 1, 2021